Spain may be known for its paella and sangria, but up north, in the region of Galicia, you’ll find a culinary tradition all its own. Santiago de Compostela is the capital city of Galicia, and is easily accessible by train, plane, or bus. It is home to bagpipe music and the cathedral that marks the end of the historic pilgrimage, The Camino de Santiago (The Way of Saint James).
This stone city is also home to dozens upon dozens of bars. You’ll most likely be drinking wine or cañas, small glasses of regional beer, and almost every bar you’ll go to will give you tapas with each round of drinks (including non-alcoholic beverages). If you aren’t familiar, tapas are delightful little snacks that range from a plate of olives to a full meal, depending on the bar, the night, and the mood of the chef. Popular tapas, especially in the cold months, may be lentil soup, ham sandwiches, Galician cheese, Spanish tortilla (a potato and egg pie-like dish) and ham or potato croquettes.
You’ll find the best tapas between about 7 and 11 in the evening, and one of my personal favorites is Bodegon O Corredoira. It’s a favorite not just because of the relaxed atmosphere and ample tapas, but because the man that owns it is a proud, pajama-wearing Galician that boasts that his is the only bar that will NOT be showing the football match. Plus, he makes his own falafel. Bodegon is found on the downhill curve between Rua do San Roque and Porto Camino (it’s also next to a bar called Fraggle Rock, which is more gig-y and less tapa-y, but an easy name to remember). On the backside of Bodegon just up from Porto Camino is La Flor, a hip bar with consistently good soup, cheese, and something akin to gumbo.
O Cabrallo Branco is a classic Spanish bar near Plaza Cervantes that boasts a delightful pulpo (boiled octopus spiced with paprika) among other ocean treasures. Plaza Cervantes is a wealth of good tapas places, but the best is a little wine bar on the corner. Don’t be fooled by the deli counter just in the doorway–go around the counter and the hallway opens up to a gigantic, wonderful open fireplace that would never pass U.S. safety standards. The tapas here are always a chorizo and cheese selection, but always delicious.
After 11 p.m., tapas are usually over, but it’s easy to find a happening spot. Just follow the crowds and the sounds of bagpipe music. You’ll be surprised how many small nooks and crannies become nighttime hotspots. When you’ve missed the tapas hour ’cause you’ve spent too much time at Modus Vivendi (a bar that does not serve tapas, but has an impressive history as an old horse stable, and has the best mojito in town), there is a doorway just up from La Flor that will open ever so slightly around 2 a.m. on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Walk in and you’ll find a little old woman named Teresa who will feed you homemade garlic soup and a gigantic sandwich. The pace at which she makes the sandwiches is trying, but worth it. For about 3.50 euro it’s the best meal in town. I recommend the ‘Lomo Ali-oli’.
Santiago is so full of so many great bars that you could really walk in anywhere and not be disappointed; so go and explore, but stick to old town.
*Food & Drink in Santiago is extensive. For more information on restaurants and popular tourist dishes like Tarta de Santigo, check out Rua Franco, Rua San Pedro, and ask the tourist or pilgrim office near the cathedral.
