You may have a number of whimsical expectations coming into Dublin, from shamrocks and pots of gold to Guinness and drunken debauchery. Don’t forget, though, that Dublin is a city of history and culture, including Trinity College, founded in the 16th century and home to The Book of Kells; Stephen’s Green, one of the nicest parks in Europe; the General Post Office, still boasting bullet holes from 1916 Easter Rising; the century-old Abbey Theater; and the impressive albeit religiously-focused National Gallery. However, truth be told, most every stereotype about the Irish is true. They drink a lot, drink even more tea, talk loudly and tell tall tales, and the more they like you, the more they make fun of you. Because winters can be harsh and enduring on this little island, and Dublin itself is often windy and bitterly cold, many of these boisterous gatherings happen in cozy pubs, and I’m not complaining.
Dublin is a large city with a river running through it, which creates a few distinct zones. The most famous and touristy is Temple Bar. While it is a bar, it’s also a neighborhood, housing more than a dozen pubs, foamy pints, lots of live music and traditional dishes like Guinness stew. It’s a cute little area that really makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time and into a village shindig. Food and drink here will cost you more than elsewhere, but it’s worth it for a pint or two for the warm and joyful atmosphere. Hanging flower baskets, colorful flags and cobblestone streets make even a stroll through this area a lovely and memorable experience. From here, you can stop at the Hay Penny Bridge, leave a lock and kiss your girl–they’ve been doing it for centuries.
Another great place to hang around is Dame Street. Yet another street straight out of a period movie, it’s home to Trinity College, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, and the opulent old Central Bank that is now a bar! The old vaults are now the toilets, so if you gotta go, go here. About two minutes from Dame Street is Fallon and Byrne. This is a grocery/deli/restaurant/wine cellar with delicious, fresh food and cheap prices for the area; a great place to grab a bite to save some money. Powerscourt is also a great place to get a bite. It is an old townhouse refurbished into a shopping center that offers different styles of eating on each level, but be warned, the higher you go, the more expensive your meal will be. It is a beautiful building filled with light and history, so if not for a bite, just have a wander around the vintage jewelry shop and admire the use of historical preservation! It is located west of Grafton Street and still looks like a townhouse on the outside so keep your eyes peeled. Check out Bewley’s Café also on Grafton to satisfy your sweet tooth. It’s famous for always being there and their deliciously decadent cakes.
Monday nights, you can stop into a bar called The Stag’s Head Pub. This is actually one of the oldest bars in Dublin, and when you step inside, you won’t doubt the claim. The dark wood and stained glass transport you to a time gone by and offer welcome shelter from the wind and rain. Have a drink while you wait for the clock to strike seven, when you are welcome to head down stairs and grab a seat for free comedy night. Depending on the week, you’ll get to see around six comedians ranging from amateur to professional, as well as a chance to hear accents from around the country. At intermission, they’ll even treat you to free ice cream.
Finally, of course, you ought to go to either (or both) the Guinness Storehouse or Jameson Factory tours. The Guinness tour is a bit more expensive, self-guided and includes a complimentary pint of Guinness, which you can pour yourself in the proper Guinness fashion. The Jameson tour is slightly cheaper, includes a tour guide and a complimentary whiskey drink of your choice. If you’re lucky, you’ll get chosen to do a Jameson taste test and get a few shots of whiskey to warm you on your walk back into the city. The only reason I suggest the Guinness tour over the Jameson is that you can hang around the Guinness Skybar as long as you like, and usually pick up a few pints from fellow tourists that want the photo but not the actual pint. If you hang around long enough, you get well the amount of Guinness for your money.
So indulge in Dublin! Enjoy the fine eats and drinks the city has to offer, strike up a conversation and have a roaring good time (just don’t mention the leprechauns). Hopefully you’ll remember all of it! For ideas on where to stay this out.
