Maybe it’s the soundtrack of metro musicians performing variations of Silent Night and O Come All Ye Faithful. Maybe it’s the theatrical display of lights that decorate the narrow cobblestone streets, turning the neoclassical Spanish balconies shades of purple, red, and green. Maybe it’s the smell of churros con chocolate, or the sound of ice skates around every corner that sets the scene. Whatever it is, being in Madrid for the holidays feels like you’re living in a Navidad rom-com, and there are several things you can do to magnify the experience.
Christmas markets are located in practically every busy plaza near Sol, the city center of Madrid. The largest can be found in Plaza Mayor, where you can shop for a Christmas tree and an assortment of artisan products, like nativity scene figurines, ornaments, stockings, and Papá Noel hats. You can also find some quirkier items like brightly-colored wigs and what appear to be leftover Halloween costumes. I’m unclear on the origins of these, but it’s possible that it’s a Spanish tradition to dress like Nicki Minaj during the holidays.
Most of the markets have vendors that sell roasted chestnuts and churros con chocolate. Although churros are not a Christmas-specific Spanish food, this traditional dessert seems to be even more common to sell as street eats during the holiday time. My favorite churros spot is Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo San Ginés, 5), located near Sol, off Calle Arenal.
As you near the city center, Madrid is dressed to the nines in Christmas lights. Some of it is commercialized, like the red Vodafone tree on Gran Vía, which is embellished with bulbs that feature the Vodafone logo, but most of it is quite a lovely spectacle, like the gigantic golden tree in Puerta del Sol through which visitors can walk for an inside view.* Every night around sundown, there’s a bus tour called Navibus that showcases Madrid’s top-tier light displays for only two euros. You can catch it every five to seven minutes on Called Serrano in Plaza Colón.
The installment of nativity scenes seems to be another leading Spanish tradition during the holidays. Most are comprised of cork, moss, and a variety of figurines like the ones you can find at the markets, but some are quite animate, and include live actors and animals. Since every nativity scene depicts the same story, madrileños are forced to get pretty creative. For example, there is a live one installed at the bottom of the shark tank at the Zoo Aquarium de Madrid (Casa de Campo, s/n).
Last but hardly least, outdoor ice skating rinks are increasingly popping up in sunny and dry Madrid for Christmas. My favorite is located in Plaza de la Luna, where I learned the Spanish translation of “Tag, you’re it!” and photobombed more tourists than I could count.
*Photo: Inside View of Tree in Sol. Photograph by R. Isabel
