Madrid is abounding with different breeds of music venues that are as diverse and colorful as the Spanish culture. Two sites have emerged as extreme representations of this variety, and unlike the archetypal urban den, both are entire buildings allotted to music and dance.
At one end of the spectrum, there’s El Dragón (Avenida de Daroca, 90) located in the barrio La Elipa. It’s possible that the venue is named after the neighborhood’s iconic dragon statue situated in a nearby playground, which is fitting because El Dragón seems to be representative of play, fantasy and experimentation. This underground scene attracts an assortment of twenty-somethings who gather for indie, punk, and electronic music. Every Wednesday night there is a free show that is open to the public.
Rather than concerts, the shows seem like parties among friends. The stage is regarded as optional; I’ve seen band members intersperse themselves throughout the crowd, making it difficult to distinguish between dancing guest and performer, and adding to the personal atmosphere. Also like a party, it’s acceptable to BYOB, but if you forget to B your B, you can get a can of Mahou (Spain’s Pabst Blue Ribbon) for one euro at the bar on the first floor.
The building itself imitates the aesthetic of a warehouse once abandoned but later colonized by a community of musicians and artists. The exposed brick and cork walls are wallpapered with graffiti, photographs, and a blend of other artworks, many of which have liberal and grunge premises. In several corners are collections of reclaimed curbside items that you can sift through while taking a break from the music. To add to the communal vibe, the second floor features a lounge and kitchen that guests are welcome to use. You can smoke inside, but you have to pee outside, and although there’s electricity, there isn’t any heat.
For contrast, there’s Kapital (Calle de Atocha, 125), a discoteca in Madrid that is infamously visited by tourists and locals alike. With more than five floors, each featuring its own unique atmosphere, Kapital is a spectacle worth seeing at least once.
Kapital as a whole flaunts glamorous motifs like plush lounges and neon lighting, but otherwise, each floor exhibits a distinct ambiance. The ground floor features an elaborate DJ stage and dance floor, above which lurks a smoke machine that releases whenever a beat drops. This floor is home to mostly American pop/hip-hop contemporary hits and throwbacks. A couple floors up is a platform that shares the ground level’s music, but here, the dance floor is considerably more intimate, and accompanied by a lounge with leather couches and two screens that feature muted music videos. Another level is devoted to a mixture of traditional música española, and is completely circumscribed by glass, through which you can see the ground floor and other levels. And, por supuesto, there’s a floor for karaoke.
It’s important to be strategic if you plan to go to Kapital. Be aware there is a high-range cover charge, but coupons are often available online that include discounts and drink vouchers. Drinks are generous and reasonably priced, and there’s a bar on every level. Also, coat check is available.
Although El Dragón and Kapital are haunted by different crowds, one person can easily enjoy both atmospheres. And while both are emblematic of música Madrileña, the two buildings are expressive of the deviating variety the Spanish capital has to offer.
