There are innumerable reasons to visit Vienna any time of year; at holidaytime, however, Vienna literally lights up with holiday spirit. There is nothing like a brisk winter filled with twinkly lights, warm beverages, hearty food and hand-made gifts. The living experience was far better than I could have imagined.
Holiday Markets
I’m not a religious person, so the magic of Christmas is purely secular for me, and the joy that comes at Christmastime is associated with twinkly lights, Santa, snow and singing, all of which you get in droves at Vienna’s holiday markets. What makes it more spectacular is the cups of cheer in the form of hot mulled wine and cider, and the many booths hawking wares from hand-crafted baskets to sparkly glass ornaments. The markets line the streets throughout the large capital city, so you have no shortage of opportunity to refill your mug, which is entrusted to you for a small deposit (that you get back when you return the mug to any of the beverage stands). Other special treats include giant-sized jelly-filled donuts, croissant pretzels, bratwurst and roasted potates.
Schnitzel
If you are like me, you thought schnitzel was some kind of hotdog before actually tasting this amazing Austrian specialty, which is actually a butterflied, flattened, breaded and fried veal or pork medallion. We went to Schnitzelwirt (Neubaugasse 52; +43 1 5233771) on the recommendation of the Internet and “chef favorite” articles; we were looking for an authentic local experience, and that is just what we got. Their menu is short and simple; the servers speak little to no English; and you share tables with as many people as can fit around it. The food is fantastic, and the prices even more fantastic. That being said, schnitzel seems to be available at most restaurants, so pull up a chair, tuck in a napkin, and get eatin’.
Architectural Eye-Candy
Maybe my preconceived notions are misconceived, but to me, old neo-classical, gothic baroque and neo-renaissance buildings connote reverence to tradition that compliments the holidays. Walking with mittens, hat and scarves along cobbled streets, craning my neck up at Vienna’s twin Kunsthistoriches museum buildings, the Hofsburg and Schönbrunn palaces, the State Opera and dozens of other beautiful structures, it’s impossible not to hum a little “Silent Night”. And that’s just the outside of the buildings!
Vienna Boys Choir
Nothing says holidays like choral music at a Catholic mass. The Vienna Boys Choir is a historical institution dating back to late-Medieval Austrian court. You can catch them on Sunday mornings at the Hofsburg chapel; it’s free for standing room, and a small price for a seat. Mass starts at 9:30, so arrive early to get a good spot.
