Long stretches of sandy beaches are usually a haven for sun worshipers who kick back, slather on some sunscreen, crack open a pulpy read and while away the day. I’ve certainly been guilty of this pleasure, whether it’s been hitting the warm, soft sands of SoCal, Hawaii, Costa Rica, Auckland, NZ or the far reaches of Cape Town, South Africa.
But a little bit closer to home, a trip to the beach can often mean something entirely different. Sure, with more than 150 miles of coastline hugging the state of Washington, you won’t have difficulty finding some warm sandy stretch to roll out your blanket and catch a few rays. But given the geography of the state (some coastal towns see more than 200 days of precipitation a year), the Washington coast tends to lend itself to a more rugged and moodier experience.
If you make your way to one of the most southern towns in Washington, you’ll find yourself strolling the longest beach in the U.S. At 28 miles long, the appropriately named Long Beach Peninsula is home to plenty of summer festivals, like the insanely popular International Kite Festival. And in the summer months, the town of Long Beach swells with sun seekers and kite flyers not only from the Pacific Northwest, but from around the world as well. But you’ll also find plenty of kindred spirits who make the trip to Long Beach in the winter months, when they can enjoy the ocean air and late night bonfires on the beach to a totally different vibe.
I started this year off with a trip to Long Beach, WA. When I checked in to the Adrift Hotel & Spa on January 1st, my reservation was for two days. By the time I checked out of this ocean front 80-room retreat, I became one of those kindred spirits and immediately began making plans for my return visit. 2014 is off to a good start indeed.
EAT
There’s certainly not a lack of options for good coastal chow in Long Beach. The afternoon I arrived I soon found myself enjoying some seriously hearty clam chowder at Captain Bob’s Chowder, but not before some internal debate about the merits of the other two chowders (lobster and salmon) Bob’s was offering up that day. Thoughts of lunch soon turned to dinner as I overheard a couple talking about a must-try Mexican restaurant “just outside of town.” That evening, I drove the mere five minutes it takes to get to the outskirts of Long Beach and headed into El Compadre restaurant for a classic, comfy meal of enchiladas, beans and rice. Well worth the drive.
If you are looking to stay closer to home (and the beach), you only need to head to the top floor of Adrift Hotel and Spa, where [pickled] fish is serving up fare from both land and sea. With a sweeping 180-degree view, [pickled] fish is the perfect spot to watch the changing tides of the Pacific Ocean (not to mention some pretty impressive sunsets). With a glance to the south, you’ll see the waves crashing up against the rocky coastline of Cape Disappointment. Look north, and your focus will run out along the seemingly endless sandy beach.
But your focus will quickly be pulled back inside once the tasty bites start arriving from the kitchen. With an eye toward food that’s sourced or produced in the region, you’ll know exactly what’s in store for the evening. Case in point: the PF Burger. This beauty is pure PacNorthwest, as it hails from Nicky Farms (natural beef), Tillamook (white cheddar), Carlton Farms (applewood smoked bacon) and Blue Scorcher (organic bun).
Not all menu items are listed with such “Portlandia” obsession, but you get the idea. One of my weaknesses is mac ‘n cheese, so spying this classic comfort dish – with the addition of maple braised pork belly – on the menu was enough to warm the body and hungry soul.
Along with the burgers, oysters, clams and calamari, [picked] fish also serves up some pretty toothy wood fired pizzas including the classic Fennel Sausage. Made with house sausage, this pie is topped off with ‘shrooms, cheese and just the right amount of Mama Lil’s spicy peppers.
DRINK
While Long Beach has plenty of options when you’re looking to grab a bite out, the same does not hold true for those looking for a thoughtfully-mixed cocktail. Fortunately [pickled] fish not only focuses on satiating your hunger, they also make sure to stock their bar with some of the best local spirits around – guaranteeing a lively bar scene well into the evening.
From the tasty Big Gin, distilled not too far from my stomping grounds in Seattle, to Whippersnapper Whiskey (Sheridan, OR) the young, yet rich and growing stable of Pacific Northwest artisan distillers is well represented.
I quickly settled in for an artichoke tinged concoction (thanks to the Italian bitter Cynar) called the drowned + saved. With John Jacob rye, distilled by Fremont Mischief in Seattle, and just the right touch of Dolin Rouge vermouth, this savory sip served as the perfect night cap before heading back to my room.
SLEEP
One of the defining traits that I was immediately struck by when I entered my room was the clean and economical lines that have been been built into every room. There is more than enough comfort in these rooms to unwind after a day on the beach. Yet, there is also enough space and lack of clutter that gives your mind a place to rest while you peer out onto the ocean – a view that can be had (thanks to some clever mirror placements) from just about any vantage point in your room.
Aside from the king bed to stretch out on, a comfy chaise lounge that is nestled up against the window with a view of Cape Disappointment, and the unbelievable rain shower head in the large industrial glass shower, there’s little else that you’ll find yourself in need of.
But if you are up for a walk around the property, turn the corner on each of the floors of this four-story structure and you’ll discover separate gathering places that have been created to suit just about any mood you happen to be in.
On the top floor, the aforementioned restaurant holds court. But on any given night (check the website for the schedule) notable musicians from across the region perform live in the restaurant’s spacious side room. A few steps down to the third floor you’ll find a quiet haven of books and sofas. If you’re in the mood, grab the latest tome, stretch out on one of the long sofas and lose yourself in prose.
If you’re not getting enough action from that page turner then you’ll want to head down to the second floor where the foosball and shuffle board tables reside. I stopped by several times during my visit and was always greeted by a lively scene of friends and families in the throes of some friendly competition.
Of course, if you really want to get your heart (and limbs) pumping, head down to the lobby on the first floor and take out one of the many beachcomber bikes for a spin on the well paved boardwalk that cuts across the windswept dunes. My partner managed to hit the trail a couple of times during our visit. And no matter how far he pedaled or how wore out he got from riding back into the stronger than usual winds, he always knew that at the end of his ride everything he needed to relax and unwind waited for him back at the Adrift.
ENJOY
If your timing is right, you just might find yourself visiting, like I did, during clam digging season. Adrift mixes it up with plenty of fun packages throughout the year, and clam digging season is no exception. For an additional $20, Adrift will set you up with everything you need to hit the beach in search of the burrowed razor clam including a clam gun, headlamp and net. They’ll even hook you up with a three-day license, so you can legally take away your 15-clam limit. Which you’ll find is more than enough for a nice batch of clam chowder (recipe included in the Adrift package).
Also of note – there are plenty of friendly canines running about, as Adrift is a dog-friendly hotel. So if you can’t bear to part with your favorite furry friend on your travels, let them share in the fun at Adrift.
Adrift Hotel and Spa is located in Long Beach, WA.
