It’s not in the best part of town, but no matter. The entrance is not the front door, but can be found opposite a marine mural in a smoking alley. Even when it’s raining, as it so often does, patrons’ cigarettes act as beacons for the Twilight Exit. It’s just across the street from Garfield High School, a local skate park and Ezell’s, the city’s most beloved fried-chicken spot, which is a good buffer before a night of Rainier.
There’s an airy patio with ping-pong that’s open until nine when the weather’s nice. It’s a fun game for the people playing, but can aggravate bystanders who are assailed by the plastic projectiles, especially if it splashes into someone’s drink, a foggy pupil floating above the surface.
I recommend settling for the stubby shuffleboard table near the blacked-out front windows. If the electronic scoreboard goes unused, the pegs stay down all night. There’s a big-bearded man that floats Sinatra around the orange walls once a week, making the warm room even more inviting. It is a space that suspends orbs of textured light, tattooed by eclectic art—nature, portraits, bridges and colorful squiggles.
The bartenders make some of the best sours in town. The drinks in this place are inexpensive, so get a round for everyone and a plate of fried mozzarella balls. The food is what you would find in any bar, but it’s all made from scratch. It tastes a hell of a lot better than what is endorsed by most late-night establishments.
If you mention it’s your birthday at this place, you’re in for a long one. In order to celebrate new life, the bartenders fill a 27-ounce stein with a long island of sorts—vodka, rum, liqueurs, cherries, and maybe a Mike’s Hard—each does it a bit differently. The drink and glass are free—the only requirement is that you drink a stein filled with water before getting anything else.
When it’s time to take a break outside, you can lean against the combative concrete whale, smoke wafting its eye, and watch people saunter down the alley toward Twilight.
